Remodeling or Renovation is any time you make changes to an existing house or structure.
Your project will usually be in one of three categories
Repair: Small damaged for example as someone accidentally puts a hole in a wall, These are usually easily fixed. However some times simple repairs can become more serious depending on the cause of the damage.
Remodeling: The reason may be just the desire to change the look or to modernize some area or areas of the house, remove or move walls, update kitchen or bath, Kitchen and bath are the most used and abused areas in the home, or the discovery of damage that has occurred.
Renovation: Total redo of the entire building.
Remodeling is “never” cut and dried, be prepared for surprises or non visual or unforeseen conditions. Simple repairs often times turn into major projects.
Before starting any remodeling, repair, or renovation take the time to thoroughly assess and evaluate the damage to see what has to be done. Determine how much of the process you not only want done but what you are capable to do your self. Guess work can be very expensive. Some things are better left to the professionals. These people are called Subcontractors.
Elements of a remodeling project
Demolition: Tear out of all damage. Sheet rock, studs, Cabinets, Plumbing fixtures, Flooring, Electrical fixtures etc. When dealing with electrical, plumbing, gas appliances if you are not skilled with these you should seek professional help. Your life or the life of loved ones may depend on it.
Getting materials: Simply going to the hardware store may not be so simple. You will need to check prices, Locate different suppliers for items you want. Determine if the Subcontractors provide materials for their work. What parts will need to be ordered or custom made.
The sequence of new construction: When each part will be rebuilt or installed. How much of the work you will do your self and when you will do your part, and when to schedule the subcontractor. You will need to know when they can put you on their schedule. Remember you are not their only customer, it may be a while before they can get to you depending on how many jobs they already have scheduled. When you determine what subcontractors and you have decided on who you want to do the work at the very beginning you should get on their schedule. Don’t wait until you are ready for them. If your part takes longer than you expect let your subcontractor know as soon as you know.
Sequence
Demolition: This is where you will discover any non visual damage or surprises which my effect your original cost projections that could turn a simple repair into a major remodeling project. Once all of the damage is removed take a close look and assess the plan going forward. If there are hazard conditions this is where remediation needs to be made.
Clean up: Any trash or scraps left from demolition may contain hazardous remnants. Junk laying around can also create trip hazard, fatigue while working Nails or screws can cause injury or damage to new construction materials. You should create a safe environment to work in and for new materials or supplies.
Sub Floors: If the sub floor is damaged removal of the damaged sub floor will expose the floor joists. Determine if there is damage to the floor joist are also damaged. If the joist or joists are deteriorated they may need replaced, If the damage effects only part of the joist you may be able to nail a new joist to the old joist. If the majority of the existing joist is deteriorated you may need to replace it. If there is just some deterioration along the top of the joist that may cause new sub floor to not line up with other existing sub floor you should be able to nail a piece of lumber along the side of the joist to keep the sub floor where it should be. Replace damaged sub floor. The edge of the new sub floor should end at the center of the floor joist. Locate the center of the next good joist, Chalk or use a straight edge to mark where the center of the joist is (3/4 inch), cut the existing sub floor on the line which gives you good support for both old and new sub floor.
Stud Walls & Beams: If you have removed walls to be replaced or if you are adding new walls this is the time to build walls or add beams if the walls that were removed were bearing walls.
Mechanical: Heating, Plumbing and Electrical. If new or additional heating and duct work this should be done before Plumbing or Electrical. Heating duct runs are required to be in specific places. Next should be Plumbing then Electrical. Some times if the subcontractors are willing they can be on the job at the same time, they usually work well with each other. Tubs and Showers typically need to be installed fastened directly to the studs before the sheet rock or other wall coverings. Some tubs and showers require being “bedded” which means during the installation they need concrete (sand mix) underneath, the concrete needs to be mixed like with water and placed on top of the Sub floor then the the tub or shower put in place immediately while the concrete is wet. This is done whether it is wood sub floor or concrete slab. The reason for bedding is because the material that the tub or shower is made of will flex a little when getting in or out after bathing or showering which over time can cause the unit to crack which can cause leaks and water damage.
Wall coverings: Sheet rock, wood, paneling, etc. Of course you may use differing products such as sheet rock on some walls and tung & groove on other walls. If you are using thin paneling or bead board panels you will need to install them over sheet rock. If paneling over sheet rock you won’t need to do a finish mud but you will need to at least do fire taping, which is your first taping coat to seal the joint. If you are going to use tile you will need to use a tile backer rather than standard sheet rock. In areas where you are going to use sheet rock but are prone to moisture such as Bath room, Laundry and kitchen certain areas need to be moisture resistant sheet rock, ( typically blue or green) Moisture resistant sheet rock should be used behind sinks and washing and drying machines. Some other wall coverings are quite popular, like Ship Lap, Tung & groove etc. These are typically install directly to the Studs. Stone may require lath & plaster or a backer board. (see tile)
Tile: Tile can be installed before or after paint, Tile requires special type of material typically referred to as “backer board”. The old school method was “lath & plaster” which may still be used rarely, lath and plaster is a lot more work and doesn’t usually save any money. Backer board can any type of suitable material. One of the most popular is Called “Hardy Board” which Is a fiber reinforced cement board was invented by a person who’s name is James Hardy who was a siding installer, he originally invented the cement board as a siding product which is also quite popular. Several other companies make a similar cement board. Hardy board products come in 3′ X 5′ sheets either 1/4″ thick or 1/2 inch thick. Other types of backer board may be a product called Wonder board, which is also a type of fiber reinforced product, Wonder board is much more difficult to work with and has lost popularity since Hardy board was invented. Another backer board is called “Dens Shield” which is a gypsum reinforced fiber board which resembles sheet rock, Dens shield comes in 4′ X 8′ sheets, with a water proof face side resembling vinyl and fiberglass back with fiber impregnated in the gypsum. Dens Shield works great for walls because it covers more area at a time. I usually use it on the walls and the Hardy board on floors. The backer board can be installed prior to paint, just remember to not to paint the backer board.
Trim: Wood work, Doors, shelves, casing, baseboard, crown mold. If you are using paint grade (unpainted) which will be painted this is typically installed prior to paint. This is so you can fill nail holes and caulk seams before you paint except where you will have hard surface flooring such as vinyl, hardwood, LVP/LVT (Luxury Vinyl Plank or Luxury Vinyl Tile). In this case you should Paint some base and store it until you are ready to install it after the hard surface flooring is in place. Also if the base is going to butt up to cabinets or stone you will want to install the base after they are installed.
Wall Finishes: Of course Paint is the most common wall finish. Typically the nail holes and caulk are applied before painting, Then primer then paint. Before painting you should be sure to remove as much of the drywall sand as possible from the walls and floors. Most drywall installers and painters depend on the “other guy” to remove drywall dust from the walls so it never gets done, but it should. For the walls you can use a dry mop (similar to a Swiffer style) to go over all the walls, Use a vacuum to clean the floors. A paint sprayer can blow dirt off the floor onto the walls, doors, and wood work If you are using paint with a lot of color it is a good idea to have the primer “tinted” with the same color as the paint which helps the color coat go on nicer. Some companies make a all in one primer/paint. Supposedly so you can get by with only one coat. I have found that to get a good paint job you still have to use at least 2 coats even with primer/paint. As for me it doesn’t seem to be a very good primer and it doesn’t be a very good paint. And it is expensive. Other types of finishes such as wall tile, Tung & groove, Ship Lap, Stone, Brick, etc are typically installed after paint. Be careful to prevent mortar from getting on the painted surfaces. If you are painting over another color that is significantly different in color it is a good idea to paint the old surface with a grey coat prior to painting the final coat. Red and paint with red are very difficult to cover, painting with a grey paint will make life a lot easier for you.
Floor Coverings: Vinyl, Carpet, Hardwood, Vinyl Plank, Tile or other types of floor coverings. Some floor coverings require an underlayment, for example vinyl needs a smooth surface because it will mold to the surface it is installed on. The Sub floor is usually some thing like OSB and is quite uneven and it will show with vinyl flooring and some of the thin vinyl planks. Hardwood and Vinyl planks are commonly used in kitchens and baths, This is NOT a good idea. Modern hardwood floors are pre finished and are tung and groove. Tung and groove is not precisely machined so if they get wet the water will go through the flooring which will cause warp age of the flooring material and water damage to the Sub floor, This can also lead to mold damage. Some companies that make vinyl plank claim them to be water proof, in a perfect world that may be the case: however the tung and groove snap lock edges are easily chipped and broken. Usually when the planks are being installed as long as the vinyl isn’t chipped or broken the installer just uses the piece and goes on with the installation. The vinyl edges don’t always seal the surface so when there is a defect or damaged area repel water. In most cases wet mopping is not recommended. (sponge mop, string mop). If you still want to use hardwood or vinyl in the kitchen or bath you should put a moisture barrier under the flooring. (visquean, or plastic tarp, or some form of water seal) Hardwood will still get water between the planks and will still warp.
To be continued